Staycation Vacation

loyalty
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I got a few puzzled looks when I told my girlfriends where I was off to for an upcoming weekend break. “Yes, Birgu”, I’d repeat. “A staycation. They’re all the rage these days.”

 

Words by Nicole Parnis | Extract taken from June's 2023 Il-Bizzilla Magazine | Read more here

 

We weren’t disappointed, and the fair city of Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa, sitting pretty across from Valletta in Malta’s Grand Harbour, turned out to be more charismatic than expected. Culturally fruitful, Birgu exudes Maltese charm, with its stone bastions and plant-pot paved alleyways, Regatta clubs and smiling locals. The street decorations and church bells set the scene for what was to be the perfect Springtime escape, away from the fast-paced buzz of the city.

 

 

The seaside locality surrounded by clear azure waters, proved the ideal place to slow down and embrace Malta’s past. Everywhere you looked was a reminder of the stories the fortified city has told. It evoked the imagination, tales of quests and journeys, battles and victories. Well known for its rich historical importance, Birgu, in The Southern Harbour region of the main island, is one of Malta’s “Three Cities”, along with Senglea and Bormla. Though petite, Birgu provided more than its fair share of sightseeing opportunities over a two-night stay. The many twists and turns of the old city streets were dotted with grand buildings that once hosted knights and hospitallers. Due to its strategic location, Birgu served as the base of the Order of Saint John and de facto capital city of Malta from 1530 to 1571. It was Birgu that held the fort during The Great Siege of Malta, the climax of the escalating conquest against the Ottoman Empire’s fight for control of The Mediterranean in 1565. The Knights of Malta withstood the siege and repelled the invaders, and the victory became one of the most celebrated triumphs of sixteenth-century Europe.

 

 

Birgu’s selection of museums is concentrated, making it a desirable destination stay for history lovers looking to delve into Malta’s thrilling past. Fort St Angelo, with its magnificent views of The Grand Harbour, is just a stone’s throw away from The Malta Maritime Museum, which explores the island’s naval background up to the Second World War. The Inquisitor’s Palace, now upheld by Heritage Malta, is one of the few surviving places of interest of its kind, and is open to the public as a museum.

 

Birgu’s core is postcard pretty - walking through the quaint medieval alleyways of traditional houses and grand palazzos is magically Mediterranean. A short stroll out of the fortifications to the nearest town along the seafront took us to Bormla, where we sat down for a drink, and first taste of warm Three Cities hospitality. For dinner, we headed back to Birgu’s picturesque square to a lively restaurant. The row of candlelit tables sneaking up the rustic alleyway proved worthy of many a photo break for fellow visitors. We went for a bountiful smoked salmon salad and a Capriciosa to share. It was then that we realised that Birgu portions were off the scale, and, more importantly, delicious. Imqaret with ice cream - a Maltese delicacy - hit the spot for dessert.

 

 

After a fresh morning walk to Senglea, across the water from Bormla over a pedestrian bridge, our Three Cities staycation led us back to Birgu square, just in time for an English Breakfast and fresh Maltese orange juice, in true holiday style. There’s something about “touristing in your own country” that extracts romanticism from simplicity, and the other patrons on the surrounding tables looked just as content. On overhearing the excitement of an American couple abroad purchasing pastizzi for the first time from the pastizzar in the square, my thoughts on Birgu being a worthy world-travel destination were confirmed.

 

Birgu Waterfront was also polka-dotted with sunshine-soaking holidaymakers enjoying their cappucinos. We had to join them for a table, it was Golden Hour after all. Apart from the stellar selection of restaurants and cafes on the waterfront, the row of super-yachts were also quite the attraction. For lovers of boats and/or celebrities, Birgu’s top class Marina is the ultimate place to take down notes. With their cream leather sofas on deck and sparkling sliding doors, they made a kitsch comparison to the nearby traditional wooden boats that take excited tourists to Valletta and back for less than five euros.

 

Boasting Baroque churches with jewel-box interiors set in a maze of colourful doors and pavestones smoothed with time, Birgu’s historical artefacts and architecture (and truffle Calzones the size of your head) certainly won us over.

 

 

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